Christchurch to Kaitaia

It’s 8:00am at Christchurch Airport and my carefully packed belongings are strewn across the floor in the departure area. I have just discovered that I am not allowed to take my gas canister on the plane and it’s halfway down my very fully laden pack. I haven’t left town yet and I’ve already worked up a sweat! I hand the gas canister over and somehow manage to fit everything back in my pack. I head for the departure lounge in need of a sit down and a chance to catch my breath but there are a few more challenges to face first. I send my carry on bag through security and walk through the scanner. I go to retrieve my bag from the conveyor belt but it’s not there. I look around slightly perplexed and then spot one of the airport security personnel rifling through it. Oh no, what now? I am starting to question whether I’m ready for this challenge given how difficult it is just to get on the plane. I ask, “Is there a problem?” “You have a lighter in here.”  Yes, I do. It’s to light the gas canister…that I no longer have! It turns out that I’m allowed to keep the lighter as long as it is in my pocket rather than in my carry on luggage. I’m not sure what the logic is there. I guess if it catches fire or explodes I’ll notice sooner.

It’s a quick flight to Wellington and the weather on landing is sunny and calm. With Auckland still in lockdown due to the Covid-19 pandemic, my original flight to Kerikeri via Auckland was cancelled. Air New Zealand’s has put on direct flights from Wellington to Kerikeri, thus saving Northland from becoming an inaccessible island. As a result of the flight changes I have a four- hour wait for my connecting flight to Kerikeri so I decide to go for a walk to Moa Point which is located at the end of the airport runway. I check the map, but presume I can’t just walk to the end of the runway so I head in the opposite direction out of the airport. My first attempt at map reading doesn’t take account of the terrain and I discover that there is a big hill between me and the sea. I retrace my steps back past the airport terminal and finally get to Moa Point. I feel that my chances of getting lost while walking Te Araroa are very high! I stand atop a small hill overlooking the sea and watch small planes land. There are a couple here taking photos so I go and talk to them. Brian and Di have flown in from Picton (on Sounds Air) and are heading to Napier for a wedding. Like me they have a gap between flights. They live in Waterfall Bay in the Marlborough Sounds and when they hear I am walking Te Araroa they offer to let me camp on their lawn when I get to the Marlborough Sounds. That’s awesome! Back at the airport I head to Fortune Favours for a beer. Fellow Te Araroa walkers Victoria and Emilie are already there so I join them. I have been following their preparations on the Te Araroa Facebook page and know they are also planning on starting Te Araroa tomorrow. Emilie is only 7 years old so Te Araroa will pose some added challenges for them both.

There are great views of the coastline and Northland on the flight to Kerikeri. After landing I grab my pack and head outside to find a taxi or shuttle into town. A man at the door asks me if I’m walking Te Araroa. I say yes I am and ask him the best way to get into town. He offers me a ride. His name is Albert and it turns out he is there to pick up Victoria and Emilie. They are staying with him tonight and he’s taking them up to Cape Reinga tomorrow. Albert is walking Te Araroa too. He’ll be starting on 13 October, which is his 62nd birthday. Albert drops me at the bus stop beside the Kerikeri Library and I tell Victoria and Emilie I’ll see them tomorrow at Twilight Beach. I’ve got plenty of time before my bus arrives so I enjoy Subway for lunch in the sunshine. Then I suddenly remember that I need a new gas canister. I look online and see that there is a Hunting & Fishing shop a couple of blocks away. I only just have time to get there and back before the bus arrives. It takes an hour and a half to get to Kaitaia on the coastal road and there are lovely views along the way. Northland is so green! It has obviously rained a lot over the winter. Those upcoming forest tracks are going to be muddy! The bus stop in Kaitaia is less than 500 metres from my accommodation. The place looks fairly basic at first glance but it turns out to be very comfortable and has everything I need. It’s almost 1:00am by the time I turn out the light. I’m feeling quite exhausted but also excited. Tomorrow I start walking Te Araroa!